The video will show the step by step procedure of installing the Rinnai Infinity A Series PCB Board. Please be guided accordingly
Keeping the packaging up to the side make sure you keep the manual so you can give it to the client later on and place the unit on flat surface where you can work comfortably.
Use a Philips screw driver and remove 4 screws holding the front panel on. There is one on each corner.
Unpack the PCB board, be careful with it because it’s electronic, you’ll see that there are 5 ports that we will be connecting. They are all in a different shape.
Find 5 different wires on the unit that you will be connecting and notice that there is a pin at the bottom of the board that locks the PCB into the unit itself.
Find the correct set of wire and plug them into the corresponding ports on the control board. You can’t really get this wrong because they will only fit one way as they are all different shapes. If they don’t fit, DON’T force them and try another.
Now carefully drop the PCB into place and push the pin into the unit itself. You’ll see that it will lock it by going through the galvanized steel at the bottom of the device.
There is one more screw that you need to put on to keep the board secure inside the unit. You can ee that here. Use an appropriate tool so as to avoid hitting any cables or scratch the PCB.
Put the front board back on and put all 4 screws back in place with your driver. Be careful don’t over tighten Once you completed these, you’re pretty much good install the unit. Job complete.
Please make sure that once you have installed the unit you strictly follow the manufacturer’s commissioning instructions. Only attempt this PCB installation if you are qualified and competent to do so. Hot Water Cylinders NZ do not take any responsibility for following instructions within this video.
Hot water cylinders are utilised in many New Zealand homes. A series of pipes are responsible for the transport of water to your property’s plumbing. Whether you rely on public water supply or use pumps, water travelling to your property should be regulated to protect your existing fixtures and hot water system. This includes the regulation of water pressure and quality.
The video above shows just how bad a leak can be when things go wrong. This is an old pressure reducing valve on a low-pressure hot water cylinder that could no longer cope with the incoming pressure.
Why Are Pressure Reducing Valves So Important ?
In the city, most homes are supplied with a public water main feed. This feed is not pressure regulated, nor is it guaranteed to supply debris free water. This ultimately means that you need to take measures to protect your fixtures and hot water system from the incoming quality and pressure of your public water supply.
How Does a Pressure Limiting (Reducing) Valve Work? This Diagram of an Ajax type pressure reducing valve nicely explains what happens to incoming pressure.
Hot Water Systems
If you have low pressure you will most likely know that there is potential for more pressure. Knowing this, it becomes pretty obvious that there is a device which limits the incoming pressure. This device is a pressure reducing valve and is rated in meters. A common rating is 7.5 meters which in other words means that the pressure is regulated to 7.5 meters of atmospheric pressure.
Those of us that enjoy mains pressure are less concerned about regulating pressure, we may believe that the more pressure the better or that it does not need to be regulated, but is that entirely true?
Appliance and Fixture Ratings
Your hot water system, your appliances, your taps and even your toilets are all pressure rated and should be regulated. This means that they will only cope with a certain amount of pressure before there is potential for failure. This may include a scenario such as in the above video where there is a high risk for flooding when failure happens.
Please ask Hot Water Cylinders NZ if you are unsure about how to rate any of your plumbing related fixtures and hot water system.
Where Do I Install the Pressure Reducing Valve?
Pressure reducing or limiting valves will protect your home and everything connected to your plumbing within. So it makes sense to install this valve as upstream as possible within the plumbing system. Typically this would be directly after the water meter on your public supply.
Often, with low pressure systems this is not desirable at all because one may still want to enjoy “mains pressure” on the cold but continue to accommodate the low pressure hot water cylinder on the hot side in which case the low pressure reducing valve will only be installed on the cold water inlet of the hot water cylinder. These systems are well known as “unbalanced hot water systems”. Another issue with low pressure valves is that they are large and “bulky” making it difficult to install within a meter box where they are prone to damage and sensitive to pressure fluctuation.
Every home should be protected from the effects of incoming pressure which can majorly increase without notice.
If you need advice or are unsure about which valve suits your circumstances best, give us a ring and we can help. Hot Water Cylinders NZ also offer valve replacement and repairs.
Here a list of valves which we may recommend.
RMC has a variety of pressure reducing valves that cater to your needs. Not only do they have pressure-relieving valves, but they also have a variety of products that go with, or have more features that will make it multifunctional.
The Filling-Group type 2128 is designed to automatically fill and refill central heating installations. The Filling-Group is permanently connected to the heating installation. The connection to the potable water system is made with a hose. When the supply pressure falls below the pressure of the heating installation during the filling operation, the water goes into the potable water system.
RMC’s Pressure and Temperature Relief (P & T Relief) Valvesare safety controls that ensure that the temperature of the water in a pressurized unvented water heater cannot exceed 99° C in the event that the normal thermostatic controls fail.
These valves may be used to guard against over temperatureand over-pressure hazards wherever water is stored in unvented containers. This is a requirement ofAustralian Standard AS 3500-4. RMC P & T Relief Valves are available in 15 mm and 20 mm configurations.
The RMC Pressure Reducing Valve is used in water systems to limit the downstream pressure to the pre-set maximum. It compensates for fluctuating upstream pressure to maintain constant maximum outlet pressure.
This is suitable for demanding commercial and industrial applications and multi-unit dwellings and can be used to reduce pressure upstream of commercial and industrial devices such as dosing apparatuses, high-pressure cleaners, and laboratory equipment.
The RMC Pressure Reducing Valve can deliver high flow rates with minimal head loss. This is available in 15 mm, 20 mm, 25 mm, 32 mm, 40 mm, and 50 mm configurations with female BSP thread connections.
A range of economy domestic/light commercial quality pressure reducing valves, suitable for various applications at temperatures up to 40°C (60°C for 1 hour max.) The valves are designed for a low-pressure drop, so minimizing noise levels.
The pressure-balanced diaphragm construction and drop-tight design also ensure constant outlet pressure is maintained across all flow rates and no-flow conditions.
All models feature cartridge construction, fully serviceable strainer and female BSP connections for ease of installation and maintenance and are suitable for use with warm water, fuel oil, compressed air, neutral gases and neutral non-sticking liquids.
Why Choose Hot Water Cylinders NZ?
Here atHot Water Cylinders NZ, we give you the best quality service and the assurance of world-class products and customer service. We not only provide pressure controllers, but also main pressure cylinders, low-pressure cylinders, gas water heating, and many more. We aim to serve you because you are our priority. That is the type of service you can get with New Zealand’s #1 hot water heating and plumbing specialist.
The Christchurch City Council is looking into this problem and they have determined the reasons for the breakdown of hot water cylinders.
Hot Water Cylinders Failing
Historically, Christchurch has been dealing with issues concerning hot water cylinder failure. Some parts of the city, such as Cashmere, have been affected more than others.
Authorities from the Christchurch City Council are hard at work trying to determine the scale and potential causes for the increase in hot water cylinder failures in the past several months.
Potential Causes for the Failures
Multiple factors may cause hot water cylinder leaking, which then requires for it to be replaced. These include: the type of cylinder, the age of the cylinder, the chemical composition of the water, whether or not there is debris in the cylinder, and the quality and thickness of the copper used in the hot water cylinder,
The City Council has been working closely with manufacturers. They have now uncovered that majority of the hot water cylinders that are breaking down are those older, low pressure, copper cylinders.
How Water Chlorination Affects Hot Water Cylinders
Some parts of New Zealand that have chlorinated water are not experiencing significant numbers of hot water cylinder failures. The reason for this is the chemical composition of water supplies around the country varies from place to place.
Auckland and Wellington use surface water or water from rivers and streams. This creates a protective film when it comes into contact with copper plumbing. Christchurch uses groundwater from aquifers.
Meanwhile, pitting corrosion that leads to pinhole failure usually happens in some bore water or underground supplies.
Hastings and Napier, for example, have bore water supplies. They have also experienced an increase in hot water cylinder failures following the chlorination of their water networks. In the Napier and Hastings area, the number of failing cylinders has decreased over the year after water chlorination was done.
Here’s What the Christchurch City Council Says
The Christchurch City Council has given this advice to people who needed to repair or replace their hot water cylinder:
“We understand that having to replace your hot water cylinder is a costly exercise and we also acknowledge that there has been an increase of hot water cylinders failing since the introduction of chlorine.
“It’s important to remember there are multiple factors as to why pitting occurs in hot water cylinders. These include: chemical makeup of the water, age of the cylinder, type of cylinder used, debris in the cylinder, and the quality and thickness of copper used. Because of this, the Council is not compensating property owners.
“We are continuing to monitor the situation and work with manufacturers and suppliers to gain further understanding. Work is also progressing on our well head remediation programme to reduce the chlorine levels in our water.”
Do You Need to Replace Your Hot Water Cylinder?
Certain cylinders are sold in areas where pitting corrosion is prevalent. If you need to replace your hot water cylinder, contact Hot Water Cylinders NZ to get the best choices for your area. Options may include stainless steel or enamel-lined steel cylinders.
Does Chlorine Affect Gas Systems or Pipes?
This is one of the more common questions that residents ask. Does the chlorine that is reacting with copper in hot water cylinders also impact gas systems or pipes?
So far, there has been no increased number of failures in copper heat exchangers in copper water pipes, gas continuous flow units, or other fittings.
The Christchurch City Council states, “We agree that the presence of chlorine in the water, along with the other factors, such as temperature, details of installation, and water chemistry, has contributed to the observed pitting corrosion. We similarly agree that pitting corrosion of hot water cylinders is likely to become more frequently observed. Whether or not this extends to other copper plumbing fittings is yet to be determined.”
Our new hot water cylinder finder is a search engine that will find any cylinder available in New Zealand that will fit within your given parameters. Enter the available space you have in terms of height and width (diameter), then submit.
The result will deliver which cylinder will either exactly fit or is just over your given parameters.
For your convenience you can also filter by brand, pressure type and price. We are confident that this tool will help you find the right product quickly. Enjoy!
Once you have found your product, why not get an installation price? Free and best price quotes are available around the clock. Call us on 0800 429 546 for more information or use our hot water cylinder price calculator.
What are the differences between hot water heaters available?
Most of us don’t give a passing thought to how our water is heated as long as it is hot when we turn on the hot water tap or get in the shower. There are various ways our water can be heated and these generally are by Gas, Heat Pump, Solar, Wetback or Power (Electricity).
An electric powered water heater can be referred to by many names – a hot water storage tank, a hot water tank, thermal storage tank, hot water thermal storage unit, heat storage tank or a hot water cylinder.
Electric hot water cylinders are the most common form of water heating in New Zealand.
The cylinders use an electric element in an insulated tank to heat the water to a temperature set by a thermostat.
It acts a bit like a hot water jug or kettle. It has an immersion element inside the cylinder (which looks like a metal loop or coil) and it heats the surrounding water.
The cylinder is an insulated water tank with a cold tube to carry water in, and a hot tube to send the water where it’s needed inside the home. The heating is controlled by a thermostat that turns on the heating element when the water goes beneath the pre-set temperature.
When the heating element is on, electric power runs through it, creating heat. Unlike a gas water heater, the heat does not go through a heat exchanger. Instead, it flows directly into the tank’s water supply.
Electric water heaters (with an immersion element) are more energy efficient than gas water heaters. A conventional electric model averages a 90 percent efficiency rating, while a conventional gas water heater averages a 60 percent rating. Electric power is generally more expensive than natural gas.
Gas does outperform the electric model in water heating speed and recovery time. A gas heater can heat around 190 litres in roughly an hour, while an electric heater takes several hours to heat the same volume.
Some other benefits to electric hot water heaters are that out of all the various types of water heating products available, they have the lowest upfront cost.
They also have a certain amount of flexibility. You can buy cylinders with additional connections suitable for having a solar water heater, heat pump water heater or wetback added in the future. This allows you to change the way you use your hot water, and for adaptation should your family size grow or the demands you require on hot water change.
You can purchase an electric hot water heater that has a thermostatic control. This means that it will automatically turn off when it reaches the temperature you set on the thermostat. This will save you money over time.
If you have a boiler system in your home, an electric water heater will not be connected to your boiler. This means that if your boiler breaks down, you can still generate hot water for your home.
If you well insulate your electric water heater, it can keep water hot for several hours after it switches off. You can set a timer on your heater so that it only switches on during cheaper off-peak electricity hours.
You can usually turn your electric water heater on or off by simply flicking the switch on the wall socket. This is a great power savings ability especially useful if you are going away on holiday and you will have no need for hot water in the house while you are away.
And what kind of things should you be aware of regarding an electric hot water heater?
Heating water using electricity is more expensive than heating water with say, gas. A typical electric water heater uses 3 kilowatts of electricity an hour, so it will cost the average house about 78c an hour to run. Most households will need to run an electric water heater for at least a couple of hours a day to get the water hot enough – costing at least $560 a year.
An electric water heater needs a thermostatic control, otherwise it can heat the water to far too high a temperature.
Some heating engineers may recommend you leave your electric water heater on 24/7 – however, this can be very expensive unless it has a thermostatic control.
Be aware that you need to heat the water in your electric water heater to above 50°C to kill off bacteria.Above all consider all of your options. What works for one household might not be the best option for yours. Getting the sizing, the placement and the installation right is important for obtaining your long term enjoyment from your new water heater.
The simple answer is, a coil or heat exchanger is a device that allows the transfer of heat between two fluids without having them come in contact with each other.
A standard immersion element is by default integrated into the average solar ready cylinder and is considered the primary heat source. When an external secondary heat sources such as solar, heat pumps or even gas boiler are used, most hot water cylinders will not have a heat exchanger to accommodate and potable water is heated directly within the tank.
Systems of this type (without a heat exchanger) are sometimes called “direct systems”, they can be a problem for a number of reasons:
The mains water may be corrosive
The mains water may be mineralised
Mains water will almost certainly have oxygen dissolved in it
The location where the system is used may suffer from frosts
Corrosive water will attack the collector tubes, this process will be accelerated by any release of oxygen from solution in the water (gasses are less soluble in water at high temperatures). Minerals in the water will form deposits inside the collector tubes at high temperatures (in the same way that deposits are formed inside a jug or kettle). these deposits will eventually block your solar tubes, gas heat exchangers, pumps, valves and other system components.
Heat exchangers in closed loop systems are critical to the performance of the system and should be matched with the heat source (gas boiler or solar for example) being used and the flow rate through the circuit so that the heat being gained by the heat source is efficiently transferred to the potable water by the heat exchanger.
The most common type of heat exchanger is the coil heat exchanger this is integral to the storage tank, although sometimes external plate heat exchangers are used.
If your hot water cylinder suddenly stops working (producing hot water) it’s a good Idea to go through a checklist of elimination to determine what the fault is before getting any quotes to repair or even replace your hot water cylinder. Initial understanding of what the problem is can save you lot of cash!!
WHY DON’T I HAVE HOT WATER?
If your hot water cylinder is not producing hot water, one of the reasons could be:
You are setup on ripple control through your current power provider. If so, your current power provider has the ability to disconnect your Hot water cylinder from the grid during peak times. Give them a ring and find out whether you are. (This is common in the Auckland area)
Have you checked your switchboard to see if the fuse has blown? You should be able to confirm this visually.
With all electrical fault scenarios, if you are unsure how to investigate / rectify, we strongly recommend asking a professional for assistance. This could be a registered electrician or registered plumber holding a current limited electrical certificate.
WHY HAS THE FUSE BLOWN?
If you have determined that your fuse has blown , there will be a good reason why that has happened in the first place.
This could include the following:
With tear and wear an immersion element will break down over time eventually causing an electrical short due to a broken circuit. This will lead to an RCD tripping (RCD’s are not common with hot water cylinder) or fuse blowing. Sometimes a new hot water cylinder element can also be faulty as shown in the image here. Within 2 hours this brand new element failed majorly causing a fuse to blow and leaving the homeowners with no hot water.
Every hot water cylinder incorporates a thermostat that controls the element. Thermostats are designed to ensure the immersion element switches on when the water temperature is below 60 degrees. Unlike older style thermostats, modern versions cannot be set below 60 degrees. Stipulated by law to prevent the growth of legionnaires bacteria. (for alternative systems to manage legionnaires bacteria please follow our blog for upcoming information) Thermostats may fail, turning off the element permanently. Some models incorporate an integrated trip device which can be reset. Caution is advised though because also in this case, there is a reason why the thermostat has tripped in the first place.
CAN MECHANICAL FAULTS RESULT IN “NO HOT WATER”?
Alternative to electrical faults mechanical faults may also result in your hot water cylinder not delivering hot water. The reason we say “delivering” is because your cylinder may still be “producing” hot water but delivery prevented by a different component in the system. One of these components is your tempering valve. (assuming the installation is a compliant one, for more information please visit our blog post Cheap cylinder quotes)
A tempering valve is installed to protect your household from scolding hot water. For a more legal description please download NZBC G12. Most tempering valves incorporate a non-return valve on the hot, cold or both sides (Tempering valves shall comply with NZS 4617 or AS 1357.2) which prevents the hot water from siphoning back into the cold water line. Additionally on both the hot and cold sides the tempering valve includes a miniature style strainer which catches any debris before entering the valve. This is designed to protect the valve from damage and prevent maintain clean delivery. Keeping the above in mind two things can happen with this valve that will prevent your hot water cylinder from delivering hot water to your taps.
If your cylinder thermostat recently failed then your immersion element would have continued to heat your water to boiling point which can put a lot of strain onto the integral HDPE parts of the tempering valve. Standard tempering valves (not rated for high temperatures such as solar above 99 degrees) incorporate High density Polyethylene parts which are rated to about 99 degrees Celsius. At 99 degrees, depending on age these will start liquefying or breaking down. Once these parts start cooling down again they will fusion preventing further mechanical operation. In this instance we are talking about the non-return valve which will no longer open allowing hot water to travel to its destination.
2. The integral miniature style strainers mentioned above have an approximate straining value of 20 microns. If you are getting a new tempering valve installed on an older system you will most likely get some of the existing lime/sludge/debris caught in the strainer which may initially look like the “pressure” has been reduced but will eventually fully clog to point of blockage.
A new installation involves new pipes, new valves and a new hot water cylinder, all of which can contain debris from the installation, transport or product itself. If the system is not flushed properly at time of the installation this will guaranteed lead to valves blocking preventing hot water delivery.
WHY IS MY HOT WATER CYLINDER OVERFLOW PIPE DRIPPING?
Every hot water cylinder, regardless, whether its mains or low pressure must have a method of expansion relief. As water is heated its density will decrease requiring more space and creating more pressure. If this pressure is not managed properly your hot water cylinder could/will explode or “burst” once it reaches its maximum rated manufacturing pressure limit. Some additional factors such as incoming pressure will also affect your system pressure as a whole.
I will cover all the valves in different blog posts, for now what you need to know is that.. If the valve is “dripping” (Especially when the cytlinder then its doing what its supposed to. This includes water exiting your relief vent through the roof.
A “drip” is normal whereas as a regular stream or gush may not be. If you are experiencing a stream, gush or heavy drip some of the following reasons may apply:
A recent increase of pressure may have happened due to utility repairs or improvements.
Your hot water cylinder is over heating because the thermostat has failed.
On low pressure systems your incoming pressure is reduced with a pressure reducing valve. This valve may wear down over time eventually allowing more pressure through than the vacuum relief valve (the vacuum relief may also be the cause) or open vent height may be allowed for. In this case maintenance or replacement will be required.
On mains pressure systems, cold water expansion or temperature relief valves may be faulty, worn out or simply requiring a clean. Both valves have a lever which allows you to open and discharge hot water. Often, doing this may solve the issue as grit may be the offending cause or your excessive drip.
We have listed the most common faults above to ensure you can make an educated decision before taking any action. If you cant find information about the fault you are experiencing on our website, please don’t hesitate to call our friendly technical team at no charge.
Manufactured in Glen Innes Auckland on January 1978 by W. Hunt & Son Ltd this HUNSON RT revolutionized mains pressure water heating in New Zealand!
Due to high manufacturing costs and technology limitations, in the 1970’s hot water cylinders were primarily manufactured from copper.
Copper hot cylinders are made to suit low to medium pressures (75KPA – 120KPA), with medium pressure cylinders being made from thicker copper. The week spot on a cylinder is not the actual copper material but rather the machine manufactured welding seams. Anything above 120KPA depending on weld quality and the seam will crack resulting in a burst hot water cylinder!
So how do you get around this problem and achieve mains pressure using low pressure technology? W. Hunt & Son Ltd certainly acknowledged the demand for mains pressure and their reply was the advanced Hunson RT Direct mains pressure hot water system. Great engineering and ahead of its time.
What makes the Hunson RT so special?
The basic principal was to use the heat exchanger to supply mains pressure ONLY to one shower making it a semi “instantaneous water heater” (in the 70’s showers started becoming more popular) whilst using the large low pressure body of water to supply the exchange heat to the mains pressure coil and direct supply to all other low pressure fixtures such as a bath or laundry.
On request Hunson could manufacture these cylinders with multiple elements up to a total of 8KW! This would certainly make the supply more reliable and showers longer but expensive to run (not sure about power rates VS income in the 70’s). Modern cylinders use the same technology in reverse because water can now be stored in a mains pressure environment (stainless steel or enamel) and of course also because of a few other reasons such as efficiency and reliability.
What challenges did this “new style” mains pressure cylinder present to home owners?
To start with, it was important the plumber got the installation right. If you have a look at the image you will see the instruction says: “At all times, the flow from the cylinder should be strong and steady, but not excessive”. Mains pressure can be anywhere from 120KPA to 500KPA and the term “not excessive” is too broad. If the pressure was set too high the heat exchanger would not have enough time to keep up with the demand. Plumbers also started using the mains pressure supply (which was originally only intended for one shower) to deliver mains pressure to the whole house and all plumbing fixtures! This immediately presented a problem because the standard supplied element of 3KW could not keep up with the demand and showering usually was over after 5 minutes! This was also the case with Hunson RT you see in this image. the only reason this cylinder survived over 30 years was because the hot water from the low pressure supply side was never used. The sludge build-up on the inside would reach all the way up to the element. Despite a sludge relief point which was most likely never ever used.
Another common issue this technology presented was random cold patches during a warm shower. Have a look at the diagram and see whether you can identify expansion, cold water inlet, hot water supply, overflow and sludge outlet. This cylinder also provides bottom entry connections for wetbacks.
Why did this hot water cylinder receive the nickname “The Elephant”?
It turns out there used to be an engineering company in New Zealand call Elephant NZ. Elephant NZ originally came with this technology and design which was purchased by W. Hunt & Son Ltd. Why that actually engineering company was called Elephant, we don’t know but if you do, please send me an email so we can add this info to our article.
A calorifier is a heat exchanger which heats water indirectly by circulating is over a heating coil or multiple coils. The source of heat can be water or steam, heated by an external heat source, contained within a pipe immersed in the water. the two bodies of water or steam do not mix. (touch each other)
In hospitals and factories where steam is already being generated for other uses is can also be used to heat the water by the indirect method.
The calorifier may be a continuous coil of pipe or a cylinder within a cylinder with an annular space between the two vessels.
With the vertical hot water cylinder, the steam enters the coil though the top connection. the strainer or grit trap removes any solid matter suspended in the steam. The steam then passes through the inlet valve which is thermostatically controlled. the thermostat prevents overheating or boiling of the stored water.
A steam trap, fitted near the outlet of the coil, prevents the steam from leaving the coil until is condenses.
In a hot water cylinder which contains a steam coil, the coil must be able to be removed for descaling. this is more likely to occur using steam because the coil is working at a higher temperature than with the conventional hot water system.
Hot water cylinders Ltd provide custom hot water cylinder (storage tanks) design and construction with integrated calorifiers at most demanded KW sizes. Our services include domestic and commercial applications. With water applications heat sources such as Heatpumps, Gas, Solar or steam can be applied. For more information please contact us on 0800 4 CYLINDERS.